Water proof collar



(No Model.)

'J. R. FRANCE. WATER PROOF COLLAR! &c.

No. 425,129. Patented Apr. 8, 1890.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH R. FRANCE, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

WATER-PROOF COLLAR, 840.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 425,129, dated April 8, 1890.

Serial No. 338,655. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH R. FRANCE, acitizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in lVater-Proof Articles of Wearing-Apparel, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to that class of articles manufactured from compounds of pyr'oXyline-- such, for example, as Arlington plastic or pyralin-either used alone or in combination with muslin, linen, rubber, or other fabrics or substances. In the manufacture of collars and cuffs from these compounds, and especially in the production of turn-down collars, serious objections have arisen from the tendency which these goods exhibit to break or crack at the fold. Among those wearing this style of collar it is customary to attach it to the button at the back of the neck and then raise the fold to permit the insertion of the band of the necktie, after which the collar is again turned down and buttoned in front, after which the necktie is adjusted. WVhen made from pyralin or other pyroxyline compound, this style of collar has'heretofore been formed either from a single sheet or piece or composed of two sheets cemented together, cut to the proper shape, and then' folded to the required form by the applica tion of heat alongthe line of fold, the methods of manufacture being well understood. Such collars are naturally rigid and depend upon the quality of pyralin or other plastic compound for such elasticity as they possess; but it is impossible to raise them from the band in order to insert the necktie without cracking or breaking the collar along the line of fold after a few repetitions of the act. Turndown collars have also been manufactured from thin sheets of pyroxyline material united by heat and pressure to opposite sides of a sheet of muslin, the collar being folded and formed in the usual manner described above; but these are subject to the same objections as to breaking and cracking, for reasons so obvious as to require no specific explanation.

I have heretofore made a fabric composed of two thin sheets of pyralin. applied to opposite sides of asheet of rubber, forming a composite fabric for the manufacture of collars and cuffs, the rubber affording an elasticity and flexibility not found in muslin and aiding and strengthening the pyralin or other compound by taking from it a part of the strain. While this fabric presents some valuable advantages in the manufacture of collars and cuffs, it does not wholly remedy the difficulties experienced in the matter of turndown collars, by reason of certain defects in the mechanical construction of the collar.

hen a water-proof collar is made from the plastic compounds referred to, and when it is subjected to heat and then folded over, the outer sheet or thickness of pyralin is stretched to its utmost tension, frequently breaking under the strain and always causing a diminution of strength at the point Where it occurs. At the same time that the outer layer of material is thus stretched the inner thickness or sheet shrinks or buckles and wrinkles in and along the line of fold to compensate for the difference in surface area of the two sheets. This action is specially noticeable in a collar made from pyralin with a lining of rubber or muslin, both on account of the increased thickness, which causes a greater difference in the relative surface measurement of the two sheets, and for the reason, also, that when rubber is used it stretches, following or accompanying the stretch of the outer sheet and causing the inner sheet to wrinkle, while muslin, when used, is held rigidly in place by the one sheet, while the other sheet must stretch the difference in their relative widths. In the same manner and for similar reasons there is a strain and more or less stretching and shrinkage in the sheets of the compound where two pieces of pyralin are cemented together without any intermediate lining.

It is the purpose of my invention to provide a simple construction whereby these obj ections shall be removed, and to enable those skilled in the art to practice said invention I will describe the same in detail, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a view of a turn-down collar constructed in accordance with my inven vention, the collar being opened and the inner side SllOWlL Fig. 2 is a transverse section of a collar in its folded position. Fig. 3 is a similarscction of a collar formed of two sheets of pyroxyline compound with the intermediate lining removed. Fig. at is a view of a collar of different style, showing my invention applied thereto.

In the said drawings, the reference-numeral 1 designates a turn-down collar formed of a sheet of rubber or muslin 2, which is inclosed between two sheets of pyralin 3, united to the rubber in the ordinary well-known manner. In the construction of this collar, instead of forming what may be termed the inside sheet of a single integral piece, I cut therefrom a strip equal in width to the difference in the relative width of the inside and outside sheets after the collar is folded. This strip is removed from the line of fold, which should fall as nearly as possible in the center of the channel t formed by the removal of said strip. I do not, however, limit my invention to any specified width of the removed strip, as this may vary, and is governed in all cases by the thickness of the material from which the collar is formed. The numeral 5 denotes a collar of similar style, but formed of two sheets of pyralin cemented together without any intermediate lining. The invention is applicable to this construction, as well as to the form previously described, and in precisely the same manner. The removed portion beingtaken from a part which not in contact with the neck of the wearer, no injury can be caused by perspiration in the case of a collar having a muslin lining, while if rubber is used the collar is-as completely water-proof as if the strip had not been removed.

I may also apply the invention to a collar of the style shown in Fig. l, in which the points only are turned down or folded over, the narrow strip of pyralin being removed from the line of fold of the inner sheet. By the means described the inner sheet is divided into separated sections, the adjacent edges of which sections extend along opposite sides of the folding-line of the collar or other article at the inside of the folding part thereof, and the space between the adjacent edges of the sheet-sections preferably approximates the width of the bend formed by folding the collar or other article.

This invention wholly avoids the objections hereinbefore specified, retains the full strength in the pyralin, and provides an elastie and easily-flexible folding collar which is durable and not in danger of breaking and cracking along the line of fold.

\Vhat I claim is 1. A folding water-proof article of wearing apparel having a folding-line and composed of an external sheet of pyroxyline material and an internal sheet of pyroxyline material secured thereto and comprising separated sections, the adjacent edges of which extend along opposite sides of the folding-line at the inside of the folding part, substantially as described.

2. A turn-down water-proof collar having a longitudinal folding-line and consisting of an external sheet of pyroxyline material and an internal sheet of pyroxyline material secured thereto and divided into separated sections having their adjacent longitudinal edges extending along the folding-line, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH R. FRANCE.

Witnesses:

'lHiJoioonUs VAN Won, (1. STEINKE. 

